Some septic advice, here..

[blueh20pc]

Sorry about the blurry pictures, I'm not a steady hand by any means.

[Capt. Fred]

You're pretty damn handy. 5200 to the rescue!

[blueh20pc]

Yep, 5200 saved the day during the thought process.

Also, for you guys who haven't noticed, there's a Noritz Tankless LPG water heater there mounted on the wall behind the pipes. That sucker is worth it's weight in gold, saves me 50$ per month on my electric bill, and that includes the cost of propane. It's 2 years old and has paid for itself already. I expect it to last another 15 years. I'll never again have a tank hot water heater.

[jenkinsph]

First, my dog wants your dog to call him and said that he will help your dog go over his contract with you. He seems to think you are in violation here without a plentiful supply of fresh water.


About the condensate drain piping, usually you would have an air gap between the condensate drain pipe and
the sewer line's p trap arm. What I have done is to put a 3"x1 1/2" jump size coupling on the p trap vertically to act as a funnel and then suspend the condensate drain line over this a few inches which eliminates the direct contact path for bacteria. This would also give you a place to add water to the trap in the winter months too.

If you forgot the bucket beneath your present set up you will have a wet basement, hope your memory is better than mine.

In most good installations you should have a drain pan under the coil with a main drain at the bottom and an auxillary drain slightly above it maybe 1/2" higher as the
alternate path in cases the main condensate drain stops up. In addition to this a pan beneath the entire unit is a good idea for attics and other areas where water could do a lot of damage.

The 20 gallons of water should be a non issue for your septic system if it is in proper working order.




Steve

[blueh20pc]

Originally Posted by jenkinsph

About the condensate drain piping, usually you would have an air gap between the condensate drain pipe and
the sewer line's p trap arm. What I have done is to put a 3"x1 1/2" jump size coupling on the p trap vertically to act as a funnel and then suspend the condensate drain line over this a few inches which eliminates the direct contact path for bacteria. This would also give you a place to add water to the trap in the winter months too.

Man, that's an awesome idea, I should have thought of that. It would have made it even more BAMFish.

The box I made is on the corner of the pan, so I can add water via the pan in the winter months, but, if I shut the valve during the winter it should keep the evap rate down on the trap. That's my thought.

Strangely, my dogs prefer the condensate water over the city water that's in the back yard. I think they can taste the arsenic in the city water

I'll have my dog's people call your dogs people, and they'll do brunch




Steve[/quote]

Steve, where at in NM, I spent four years in albuquerque, at Kirtland AFB. Love it there, never should have moved back to the east coast.

[jenkinsph]

Well native of New Orleans, now in Ruidoso NM which is a small ski/horse track town at 7500 elev. Quite a culture shock.

As you know, small lakes, no tides or tidal waves to worry about.


In the HVAC bizz here.




Steve

[blueh20pc]

I've been to Ruidoso. Nice place. Small is right. Sleepy town. I spent a fabulous weekend at the lake in T or C many years ago. Girls gone wild on boats.

You mean the swamp cooler bizz.....

Come on out to the OBX for a week and go fishing. We got humidity just like in NO....

[jenkinsph]

Yeah, lived in T or C for 7 years on the river between the two lakes (Rio Grande). I fish in the NE part of the state at Ute and Conchas lakes.

T or C is swamp coolers but Ruidoso is refrigerated air.


Steve

[Garett]

Once I got thinking about this 15-20 gal. business........what's an extra shower a day? Nothing.