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Old 10-19-2007, 08:21 PM
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Default Windlass mounting solved

A lot of us don't have boats with a cleverly mounted windlass (Glen who?). To make it worse, there is often no real good place to put it and a bow roller. Either the foredeck is too small or the edges roll off. You Florida folks don't anchor a lot, but some of us do. I dive more than I fish and there is usually no one on the boat while we're in the water. So, it is kind of important that I have good, stout ground tackle and lots of it.

My current project is the Venture 34. It has a bit of room on the foredeck which was originally taken up by an 8" Accon pop up cleat, a flip over bow light and a pair of lift up chocks. But the edges roll off to the bow rail and there was no place to put the anchor roller.

The first photo shows all the existing hardware removed. Now's a good time to make sure there is nothing in the way underneath the deck Drilling through wiring is a hassle.


Next, you lay out the template for the windlass and make sure you have room.


Now, get a chunk of cardboard and make a template as shown in the next shot. Handsome, huh? But it gave me the dimensions and let me hold the roller in place. The next step is the tough one. Find a programmer who has a CNC milling machine (that's me) and buy a chunk of 3/4 x 12 aluminum plate. Design it on the computer so it looks less like an air guitar and more of a mounting plate. Program it and cut it out.



The comes the fun part. back out to the boat and lay it in place. If it fits, start drilling holes. Taking a 4 inch hole saw to your deck makes for some cringing, but it has to be done. After the holes are drilled, do a trial assembly.


The next part of the operation is going to be drilling a few additional mounting holes in the plate. I'll make a doubler plate to got on the backside of the deck and I'll drill the holes for the roller and the chain stop. If you look closely, you'll see that the plate did not quite cover the chock holes, but I'm going to mount Low profile LED nav lights to cover the holes. Next the plate will get anodized and stuck down with 4200.

If you can't find a machinist and a machine, let me know. I'll need a good template and it won't be inexpensive, but it is a nice piece of hardware. FWIW, the Jupiter was much harder because the deck curved side to side. The back of the plate has to be contoured to match. That was tough.

This will give you an idea of what it will look for. Yeah, it is a big windlass and it has a drum as well. The drum is really handy for bringing up anchors someone else left behind.....

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Old 10-19-2007, 09:39 PM
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I AM POSTING THIS IN CAPS BECAUSE THIS IS WHAT POSTING PROJECTS IS ALL ABOUT!!!! CONGRATS K AND THANK YOU... I appreciate this as it takes a lot of time to do and all of us should strive to do the same......this is what will make this site diff than the others.......QUALITY POSTS!!!
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:21 PM
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Kern- that looks great! You really ought to market that to CC owners, they supply the template and you CNC and anodize the bracket.

For anyone who never saw the final product on Kerns' 31 Jupiter, it was awesome.

Here is a couple of pics on how not to do it, courtesy of some unnamed So Florida builders:

My favorite:


and again no names, but suffice to say this one was too close for comfort:


Since I have the same problem, Kern what do you think of CNC'ing the blank out of foam (maybe 15# density Corecell), with plenty of relief on the top, and a contour on the bottom (easily hand sanded to match the deck) and using carbon cloth wet pre-pregs to layup the skins. Then, you could have Westerly autoclave it, and get a really nice looking part. Probably weigh 6 lbs, maybe $150 for materials.

More trouble than it's worth?

John
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:36 PM
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Kerno , Way cool post .

Is whats funny is I bought a Aluminum boat and put a piece of fiberglass on it [ bait tank ]

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Old 10-20-2007, 12:03 AM
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John: I'd love to try doing one in carbon fiber. Bring the the foam and a template and we'll do it. In this application, I don't mind having the additional weight on the bow, but I'll also save the pattern so it can be duplicated in carbon. It is probably not advisable to counter bore bolts holes in the carbon fiber, but it could be mounted with fillister head screws or shutter screws. I'm going to spend tomorrow working on the trailer, so I'll be posting that as well.

Here's shot of the Jupiter trailer in process. I ran the bunks crosswise instead of the typical longways arrangement. Each bunk acts as a trap and a guide. The boat centers on the trailer like magic and thers no place it can get crossed up and hit the frame or fenders. It will have rollers on all the trailer cross bars and the V's will run right to the rollers

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