I got quite a bit done this weekend, including wrapping up the trailer and finishing the windlass installation. One of the mysteries of the trailer was how to attach a rectangular steel coupler to a round stainless tube and make it beefy enough to survive towing 12,000 pounds. The coupler had been welded to the old trailer tongue, so I cut it off so I had a short section of rectangular tubing with the coupler still welded to it.
I took a chunk of aluminum and turned a diameter on the end that was a nice fit in the tube. The inside of the tube was smooth enough, so I cut an o-ring groove to keep the joint dry. Then I cut the other end of the piece into a rectangle that slid into the short piece of tube the coupler was welded to. I drilled two holes through both the coupler and the aluminum adapter block, a 5/8 for the main bolt and a 1/2 inch for the safety chains. Next came a hole through the tube and the round end of the adapter block. Once everything fit, the block got anodized and the coupler got re-galvanized.
Here's the adapter block:
I put a 2 inch long piece of aluminum tubing over the tube so it had a solid surface to bump up against the front of the trailer. The 5/8 bolt that goes through the tube also went through that spacer. So, you can see that there are three bolts that go all the way through. The first one is the main attachment of the coupler to the adapter, the second one is for the safety chains and the third attaches the slider tube to the adapter block. You can see the red top of the hitch pin that keeps the tube from sliding. To extend the tongue, you pull the pin, drive the truck forward and drop it in a hole at the far end of the tube. All three bolts are grade 8. I was amazed to find that those 5/8 hitch pins we all use hold the ball mount into the receiver are just mild steel. I guess since the walls of the 2" receiver are plain steel as well, maybe it does not matter.
So, here's what it looks like with the tongue extended. The safety chains slide with the tube, so they can stay hooked to the truck. I do have to detach the light and brake plug.
The detachable fender "lash up" is done as well. I've put tapered studs in to make putting the fenders in place easier. The clearance lights had a a short stud, so I had to cut a hole through the bar to put the nut on. The lights are LED's with a stainless bezel, but the Chinese felt a steel bolt was just fine. Why go tot he trouble of making a nice light and then cheap out? Anodize also insulates things electrically, so you can see the ground wire I had to run to the light housing.
The spoked galvanized wheels just were not going to cut it with all the other work I did on the trailer, so some "Bling" had to be added. I wanted the five spoked aluminum wheels, but they did not have enough load rating. The 7 spoke are rated at 2830 pounds each, so 7 spoke it is:
The windlass is in place, wired and is finished. The boat originally had one of the flip over bow lights, but with the windlass plate and roller, I had to go to side lights. The only ones that looked halfway decent were the Lopolight LED's. They are made to bolt to a wall or vertical surface, so I had to make adapter blocks to raise them a bit and cover the old holes in the deck. I put a stainless pop up cleat in the center of the plate for tying off the anchor. I also added a cleat on each side for mooring, since when the anchor is in place, the center cleat can't be used. The windlass is a 1200 watt Lewmar. The turnbuckle arrangement with the pelican hook is the best type of chain stop I've found:
