No snaggging constantly as if when using a jig-n-shrimp. If so replace the leader or hook....and move on. I buy hooks by the thousand lot, and burn them like cord wood.
If laws allow, the use of a small treble hook is perfect. ""SMALL"" hooks must be used, so shrimp (hooked just under the horn, like an ear piercing) can live and swim around, a long time.
A #8 E.C. bronze treble is killer (L374) I think!
If not I'll use a #6 Eagle Claw wide bend (L042) or even go to a #8 on one of those too for smaller Trout.
Again...a good reason to use a long arcing light rod, to protect, Trout lips from pulling off hook. And use a light drag.
Shrimp has to be alive and swimming to get quality Trout bites here....and reds, and everything else, really. I take 10 dozen usually with 2-3 people fishing. Save fresh, but dead ones for placing on 1/4 - 3/8 oz. jigs to pitch up to jetty rocks, if all else fails.....but never does. Except when wanting those Redfishes ugly cousins the Black Drum, down deeper sometimes.
Try it. I find float-rigging addictive.....and I'm a pure-ist. Like a Fly flinger...Everythings better on a float rig, as they are with a fly for a flinger.
Best Floats ever?
In Cabela's - 1oz. Salmon Stalkers, (EVA foam floats covered in plastic) 2 oz. for heavy current in deeper water. Super light weight and can detect the slightest bite to the observant angler.
Betts "billy bobbers" work okay...light wood/balsa
When ""drifting"" float it must stand straight up...so the rig is vertically drifting in current. When it goes down, let it disappear and reel first, lift rod second. Fish on!
Torpedo weights are best. We call'em Trout leads. swivels on both ends or just one swivel on leader end.
Remember...one foot off bottom at hook in low speed current, one foot off the bottom at weight when in faster current. (leader and shrimp swings back in current) measure at weight in faster current.
IT KILLS!
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