Hmmmm, pulling the tranny/ clutch/ flywheel with the starter in place is a new one to me....boy I must be old school.
Replacing the throwout bearing.
Is that model prone to early retirement of the throwout bear? Generally throwout bearings last forever unless the driver doesn't know how to drive a stick...........but the tranny is out, therefore now is the time to do it if one is going to change it. Myself, if the bearing turns freely and it is tight I wouldn't be replacing it.
Engine "GUNK" IMO works much better then brake cleaner for removing engine oil. One can will clean all that up and you shouldn't have to scrub nothing!
Spray with GUNK, let sit, garden hose off the mess! Repeat for really built up areas.
Clutch packs: there's little doubt the clutch disc is shot....clutch discs and oil don't mix. But would I buy a clutch plate as well? Possibly, probably not....BUT I would sure inspect the heck out of that plate's surface before I said no or yes to buying a new one.
* How hard has that clutch been ridden?
* How many miles on the car; how many city miles would you put to the total car's mileage?
* Are you seeing any spider cracks on the plate's surface? If you are seeing spider cracks then yes I would be replacing it without question.
Flywheel: Is the flywheel show any spider cracks? If so, I'd be replacing it as well. If not, I would be taking it in to an automotive machine shop and having it resurfaced! And if I wasn't replacing my clutch plate I would be having the plate's surface refaced as well!
When a clutch disc is exposed to oil droplets the droplets does not create a complete film of oil over the disc's surface all at once, it just screws up little areas at a time. So what happens is the oily areas of the disc becomes skid zones if you may and the non-oily areas bit/ engage. Well it is the inconsistency of the disc's surface which creates hot areas on both the flywheel and the clutch plate. These hot areas do two things, One they cause both surfaces to become uneven (not flat smooth) and if the condition goes on long enough that heat build up causes spider cracks in both hard surfaces. Some might say the heck with spider cracks.....I'm not racing the car and I'm not turning 10-12k rpm.....as long as both hard surfaces are milled smooth I should be good to go. Well it's an arguable point for sure, I guess it really depends on how big and how many spider cracks we are talking about........an automotive machine shop that turns flywheels and clutch plates will be best to advise you.
* How much money do you want to spend on this job?
* How much longer do you want to drive this car?
* How much city driving is the car exposed to?
* How much hard launching are you doing?
These would be questions I'd want to answer myself before I started shelling out the big dollars. Oh, price out the difference between having the clutch plate resurfaced and buying a new one.