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Old 05-21-2008, 09:31 AM
Garett Garett is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfncnow View Post
Yeah Garett, not trying to be a polar bear about getting the wheel off.

BTW, still can't get the darn wheel off. But I haven't had the chance to really work on getting it off. Hopefully this week I will have more time. Between wedding and birthday's most of my time is taken. I'll keep you guys informed though.
Just so you know Ron, the polar bear thing, that came out because I was talking with Les (Welder) on the phone the other night and I was telling him about my last winter camping trip and my run in with a polar bear.

Really though, your steering wheel shouldn't need the force of a bear to remove it, but then again corrosion can be a real bear at times. ☺

WHATEVER YOU DO Ron, keep that hold down nut on the steering column shaft while removing the steering wheel, that nut WILL save you from a Serious goose egg on your forehead, broken nose or bust out teeth!

Tela-flex steering column, well I don't know anything about that, but I would have to imagine that the steering wheel is aligned by splines or set by a key, therefore my method will work. If you can not get your knees at the 9 & 3 o'clock position to apply a removal directional force, then have someone Firmly pull the steering wheel from any 180° position while you use the two hammer technique.

Two large ball-peen hammers are not needed with my technique, but the two hammers work well together. One acts like a spacer, transmits force well and the striking end of the hammer is large enough not to damage the end of the steering shaft/ nut and of coarse the second hammer is the driving force. One can easily substitute the first hammer with any LARGE drift/ punch/ short steel rod.

When you strike with the driving hammer don't love tap it, swing the hammer firmly and with a follow through force, like you are driving in a good sized nail. Sometimes stubborn steering wheels need numerous swings/ blows with the hammer.

The two hammer technique has two benefits, one is vibration in breaking loose the frozen contact and the second is the opposing forces....wheel outwards and column inwards. Looking at the second benefit, keep in mind the steering column is mounted to your fiberglass dash panel, therefore use lots of upward force on the steering wheel when driving the hammer. I have removed several boat steering wheels mounted to a fiberglass dash without any ill effects to the glass or gel coat.

Good luck, it will come.....I’ve pulled hundreds of steering wheels with the above technique.
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Last edited by Garett; 05-21-2008 at 09:35 AM.
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